Remove Pos and negative battery cable and battery. WIRING Diagram image is below but here is WIRING Description in words: so unless you do, you don't need a high amp alternator and those extra amps may be dangerous some day if things go wrong. I have NO extra accessories, racing fans etc. My Nappa part#213-4010, the wires exit on the right side and the clocking is correct. check the clocking when you buy the alternator. (perhaps they had different alternators) or my bottom bracket is just purrrrrrfect? Oh. I saw others messing with the top bracket too, buying curved top brackets for alternator, but my straight top bracket worked PERFECTLY. Swing the top bracket down and your new bracket should be inline "Z" with that bracket so your alternator isn't tipped up or down but straight. The alternator needs to go up about 1" and over about 2" and out about 1.5" in order to mount. The bottom alternator flange is 0.200" wide so my brackets fit that closely then tighten right up. I have machine shop access so for me, the bracket was easy, but they are sold online if you search. The "self exciting" thing is weird on those too. It isn't meant to run a whole electrical system and it can't regulate downfield to keep up with voltage drops. I almost went down the "one wire" alternator route but many online talked me out of that. I also really didn't want to have to mess with updating the 3 wire voltage regulator to a 4 wire, messing with harness more than necessary etc. I decided to use the Chevy 10Si self regulating Alternator due to it's availability/cost and performance. ![]() So I read quite a bit about doing this and I am documenting for others what worked for me because it is a real trying to figure this out by yourself and while there is a LOT of info on the web, not all of it is useful or correct. Run a 10 Gauge BLACK wire from the GRD or G lug to the area of your ground terminal buss (Should be at or near the starter.Hi Cometeers!!!! Do we all have our ears on? Lets GO!.For your Charge lamp, Isolate your lamp circuit now, (should be at the regulator now.) And connect that to Terminal #3.If not needed, for a better, neater wire count, just jump it to terminal #1. For a better remote Sense, run that small red terminal #2 terminal, To the horn relay.Run a RED 10 gauge to the Starter solenoid Battery side via a proper Fuse link or maxi fuse.But only that what you need to Self Excite the Alternator from low RPM.Īs far as Installing a 3 wire.Fairly simple Operation. If the Alternator is running, Say., Doublespeed.It will wear internal parts, Bearings will be stressed, bushings taxed, more wear / Sparking on the slip ring pick ups.ĮLECTRICALLY it taxes the unit also, as it runs harder, creating more heat, which breaks down diode substrate material leading to premature failure / Rearward Biasing.The Insulating paint (Glypt) Can Heat and Flake off under higher operating temps, leading to winding failure. Or you could go up to 100 amps.Or Graduate into the CS 130/140 Series, which would require a pulley change if your not running serpentine now.Īs far as a 1 wire, changing a pulley to augment lower end RPM.Is OK PROVIDED you DO NOT super-size the overspeed.Sure it will run fine. You can Self excite it.jumper the small red to the large red right on the back of the Alternator, lessening the wire count to two.OR if you find the system, being 40+ years old.has a tendency to "Bloom" on RPM Changes.Can be remotely sensed to turn the regulator on / Off quicker/longer.įor a Bare-bones system.a 63 amp would suit you nicely If you have no aftermarket air.Or a Super High performance coil (With Draws in the 40 amp range) My Suggestion would be a Delco 3 wire.One reason is the charge lamp.Not only is it a good indicator of system support and state of charge.But a Fine first line of warning in case you blow a fan belt.Instead of a Temp gauge climbing toward the south side of 300*. I think this would be a better application. ![]() It will Bolt straight up to your hardware.AND look stock.(only your hairdresser will know for sure.) ![]() :thumbup: No Higher Forms of math to figure diameter of pulleys. They make a 3 wire internal or external regulated Alternator that is in a standard Ford ain: (I'm A Chevy Guy.I leave the Ford Q's to Kultulz.) Generator Housing.No messing with mounts. The First line I would take.Especially if you are going for a full retro look.Give these guys a call, Ask for Don.or email: The lighting / System May be subject to "Blooming" between stop and go. ![]() You Can no longer run your idiot lamp.No provision for that. The first is from low RPM, you need to add RPM to get the Regulator To Self Excite (Turn on.) or under sling the pulleys, it may sit there discharging.or not charging. The One wire Alternator has certain drawbacks you should be aware of.
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